#meccabeautyjunkie | Beauty and Beyond

AHA’s, BHA’s and Drunk Elephant’s TLC

Posted on March 2, 2017 by Tanya-Maree

I first started working with glycolic acid products in the early 90s when AHA’s (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) hit the market in a big way. Back then there was so much trepidation in the industry around using AHA’s that as a Beauty Therapist I had to first attend courses to become certified in using AHA products in salon.

Fast forward twenty-two years and now the market is flooded with over the counter AHA & BHA products with just as much misinformation for the consumer. So in the review of the Drunk Elephant TLC Framroos Glycolic Night Serum I thought I would clarify the difference between AHA’s, BHA’s and what they actually do.

What is an AHA?

AHA is an acronym which stands for alpha hydroxy acid derived from either naturally occurring plant sources or can be synthetically produced. So just because a product contains the ingredient AHA it doesn’t necessarily mean its from a natural source. AHA’S are usually added to leave on products as they need time to work, disintegrating the ‘cement’ or ‘glue’ that holds dead skin cells in place within the stratum corneum of the epidermal skin (see diagram below).

(Source: http://au.pinterest.com/explore/layers-of-skin/)

The most common AHA’s include glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric. AHA’s have humectant qualities which means they attract water and can be hydrating for the skin. Ideally used on a clean bare skin.

What is a BHA?

BHA is an acronym which stands for beta hydroxy acid, this is a little different from an AHA as it can penetrate to the bottom of the pore (see diagram below) and clean it out, which is great for acne prone skin or clogged pores. Oil soluble BHA’s can penetrate the natural oil barrier of the skin, however they are not humectant and can be drying on the skin. BHA doesn’t cause photosensitivity and can be used either morning or evening. Great for use as a spot treatment on pimples.

(Source: http://shrinkmypores.net/2016/01/13/why-are-my-pores-so-big/)

What Makes Drunk Elephant TLC Framroos Glycolic Night Serum Different?

Drunk Elephant TLC Framroos Glycolic Night Serum contains both AHA’s and BHA’s so it breaks down the glue holding dead skin cells as well as clearing out pores from the bottom up. The acronym TLC actually stands for tartaric, lactic and citric acid which feature in this product.

For a product to be an effective exfoliator it should contain around 5-10% AHA, where the Drunk Elephant TLC Framroos Glycolic Night Serum contains 12% with 1% of that being salicylic (BHA) content. This is a highly active AHA and BHA ingredient content which makes this product highly effective.

When first starting to use AHA’s it is recommended to build up the tolerance of the skin by using either smaller percentage AHA products and building up the % gradually. Or in the case with this product intermittent use, i.e. once or twice a week building up regularity as the skin gains acceptance of the product.

As I have been using AHA and BHA products prior to this 10-day trial I have had no problems using this AHA/BHA product nightly. Having an oily thicker skin, I tend to not suffer issues with product sensitivities in general, however I would suggest people with identified sensitivities should trial this product and maybe build resistance slowly.

As the name suggests the product is used as a night serum on clean skin, however the Drunk Elephant B-Hydra Hydrating gel can be applied as well for extra hydration and both can be sealed in with the Drunk Elephant Virgin Marula Luxy Facial Oil. I have been using the Drunk Elephant TLC Framroos Glycolic Night Serum as my only product at night in the last 9 days and I have been waking to find my skin more even in texture, brighter, feeling soft and hydrated.

Along with the usual ingredients like marula oil, anti-oxidants and water retaining humectants as outlined below in the Nerd Ingredient List, this product attracts glowing reviews online. A product I will continue using past this 10 day Drunk Elephant trial.

Nerd Ingredient List

Water/Aqua/Eau = Liquid substance that is capable of dissolving other ingredients that would otherwise be difficult to incorporate into the desired cosmetic.

Glycolic Acid = Glycolic acid is a naturally occurring substance, that when used in skincare products offers many benefits to the skin, from rejuvenating to moisturising. In its raw state, glycolic acid is a powder made up of colourless crystals that have no scent. Derived from plants – such as sugar cane, pineapple and sugar beets- its botanical properties help to treat skin conditions such as Psoriasis, Melasma and Seborrheic keratosis.

Butylene Glycol = butylene glycol is added to skin care products to increase penetration by other ingredients in the formulation. butylene glycol is sometimes included in formulations to give creams a thinner consistency. butylene glycol can also act as a solvent, and makes it easier for other ingredients in the formula to mix. (can be an irritant)

Glycerin = Glycerin is a humectant that can be naturally derived from plant oils, or it can also be synthetically produced. As a humectant, glycerin works to moisturize the skin by drawing water from the air into the skin’s outer layer. It also forms a protective layer that helps prevent moisture loss.

Salicylic Acid = Also called beta hydroxy acid (BHA), this multifunctional ingredient addresses many of the systemic causes of acne. Salicylic acid’s primary benefit is as an exfoliant helping to shed the unhealthy build-up of dead skin due to sun damage, aging, and the abnormal build-up of oil and dead surface cells for those with acne, congested pores, and oily skin. Salicylic acid helps skin exfoliate in a natural, gentle manner similar to how skin was able to exfoliate when we were younger. In addition to these benefits, salicylic acid also has soothing properties to calm aggravated skin, can help minimize the appearance of an uneven skin tone, and has hydrating abilities that can result in smoother skin.

Lactic Acid = Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) extracted from milk, although most forms used in cosmetics are synthetic because that form is easier to formulate with and stabilize.In a pH-correct formula (generally a product would have a pH between 3 and 4) and in concentrations between 5 and 12%, lactic acid exfoliates on the surface of skin by breaking down the material that holds dead skin together, allowing it to shed naturally as it once did. Lactic acid may cause sensitivity, although this isn’t common and can be minimized, if not eliminated, if the formulation contains soothing ingredients.Lactic acid also has hydrating properties and, like glycolic acid (another AHA), helps brighten an uneven skin tone.

Citric Acid = Citric acid is an alpha hydroxy acid used in personal careproducts to adjust the acidity or promote skin peeling and re-growth in the case of anti-aging products. Citric acid is naturally found in citric fruits and juices, providing the characteristic acidic taste.

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Juice Extract = An antioxidant Grape seed extract.Vitis Vinifera is the technical name for grape seed extract, which is used in cosmetics and personal care products because of its natural antioxidant properties. Vitis Vinifera has been traditionally used as a wound healer and anti-inflammatory, dating back to European folk healers. It is now used for its numerous properties that are thought to be beneficial, including as an anti-dandruff, anti-fungal, anti-microbial, antioxidant, and UV absorber ingredient, and is therefore seen in a wide variety of cosmetics and personal care products

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice = Aloe vera (also listed by its Latin name of aloe barbadenis) is a commonly used plant extract that has soothing properties, antioxidant qualities, and serves as a hydrating agent for skin due to its polysaccharide and sterol content. In pure form straight from the leaves, aloe vera’s benefits for skin include its lack of occlusion and the refreshing sensation it provides (hence, why it’s in common “after sun” products).

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Extract = is derived from a crop plant native to Mexico. Also known as the Indian fig, cactus pear, and prickly pear, the Opuntia Ficus-Indica The plant is a member of the cactus family Cactaceae. The plant is rich in vitamins, proteins, minerals and acids. The plant extract has been used in products to protect, smooth, and moisturize the skin. It has also been used as an alternative to Botox because of its firming qualities. Has been found to have exceptional. Water binding characteristics enabling it to retain moisture. As a skin care ingredient, it is viewed as a humectant, a substance often used in products to keep the skin hydrated.

Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract = Seeds (the horse chestnut itself) – high in saponins known collectively as ‘aescin’ or ‘escin’, flavonoids (mainly glycoside derivatives of quercetin and kaempferol) and starches, proteins and sugars. They also yield a fatty oil containing oleic, linoleic, linolenic, stearic and palmitic acids.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract = Botanical Ingredient. An extract of the leaves of the tea plant camellia sinensis. Commonly referred to as green tea extract. Biologically speaking, a significant amount of scientific evidence points to the antioxidant and anti-carcinogenic properties of green tea.

Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract = Polyphenols like tannins and flavonoids are the two primary constituents of raspberry leaves. Polyphenols act as antioxidants, which may help slow aging and diseases such as cancer. A study from the Medical University of Bialystok, in Poland, found that the flavonoids quercetin and kaempferol predominated in raspberry leaves. In addition, raspberry leaves contain phenolic acids, minerals,vitamin C and plant alcohols.

Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract = A skin-conditioning agent Also known as baker’s yeast. Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract is a skin-conditioning agent used in cosmetics and beauty care products because of its ability to act in oxidative stress and improve skin conditions

Buddleja Davidii Meristem Cell Culture = Buddleja davidIi is a shrub of the Scrophulariaceae family, which is native of Eastern Asia and widely spread in Europe, mostly as ornamental plant. In traditional medicine, Buddleja plants are widely used for their wound healing, anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties.The stem cell culture of Buddleja Davidii contains verbascoside, isoverbascoside, leucosceptoside A and martinoside which have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and photoprotective activity. In addition, it has phytosterols, amino acids and polysaccharides, which contribute moisturising properties. These elements of the stem cell culture allow for effective and broad protection from photodamage and oxidative stress.

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil = More commonly known as marula oil, Sclerocarya birrea oil is a non-fragrant plant oil that’s a rich source of fatty acids for skin, including palmitic and stearic acids.

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer = A modified form of skin-replenishing hyaluronic acid attached to a polymer structure that keeps it within skin’s uppermost layers longer, allowing for enhanced hydration. Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer is not animal-derived.

Allantoin = This product is used as a moisturiser to treat or prevent dry, rough, scaly, itchy skin and minor skin irritations

Hydroxyethylcellulose = A lubricant and thickening agent derived from cellulose. Hydroxyethylcellulose is a plant-derived amino acid used as a preservative, emulsifier, binder and thickener in beauty products. It’s a water-soluble polymer that provides colloid protection and can be thickened or thinned to be used in a variety of products.

Galactoarabinan = Galactoarabinan, abbreviated to GA by botanist types, is a polysaccharide extracted from larch trees. One of its properties is that it reduces particle size, which helps ingredients disperse and, in doing so, can improve the SPF properties of a product with sunscreen. It can minimise fine lines, perhaps because it acts as a gentle exfoliant and inhibits moisture loss.

Propanediol = Propylene glycol is a useful little molecule and has found applications as a skin conditioning agent, humectant (moisturiser), fragrance ingredient, solvent and is used to reduce the viscosity of a formulation.

Disodium EDTA = A salt of edetic acid It primarily works as a preservative, chelator and stabiliser, but has also been shown to enhance the foaming and cleaning capabilities of a cosmetic solution.

Xanthan Gum = Xanthan Gum is used as a binder, emulsion stabilizer, emulsifying surfactant, as well as an aqueous viscosity increasing agent in cosmetics and personal care products because of its capability to hold water, enhance freeze-thaw stability, and improve shelf life and help with the stabilization of a product. A polysaccharide derived from glucose or sucrose (sugars)

Hexylene Glycol = Hexylene Glycol is a solvent and viscosity agent used in many skin care products. It is used to thin out heavy compositions and create a thinner, more spreadable product.

Phenoxyethanol = Phenoxyethanol, also known as Ethylene Glycol Monophenyl Ether, is a glycol ether and bactericide (that functions as a disinfectant, antiseptic or antibiotic) that is primarily used as a preservative in cosmetics and beauty products.

Caprylyl Glycol = Can be plant derived or chemically synthesised. A humectant and skin conditioning agent that lends moisture, emollience and wetting properties to many cosmetic solutions. It also function as a stabiliser and has been shown to increase the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives.

Ethylhexylglycerin = A natural preservative used as an alternative to parabens. Derived from glycerin and can also be used as a deodoriser and skin conditioner

Sodium Hydroxide = Sodium Hydroxide is an inorganic compound used to control the pH levels or serve as a buffering agent in cosmetics and personal care products

Sodium Nitrate = Is a salt. Sodium nitrate can be found in plants and unregulated drinking water. Nitrogen is turned into sodium nitrate in soil and is necessary for plant growth. Plants absorb sodium nitrate from the soil in varying amounts. Vegetables with high levels of sodium nitrate include spinach, radishes, lettuce, celery, carrots, cabbage, and beets.

Potassium Sorbate = Functions: Potassium Sorbate is a mild preservative being used in cosmetic and skin care formulas as a paraben alternative to prevent or retard the growth of microorganisms and protect products from spoiling

Pentylene Glycol = A humectant, Pentylene Glycol is synthetic humectant used in cosmetics and beauty products that is also secondarily used as a solvent and preservative. It is both water and oil-soluble and can have moisture-binding and antimicrobial properties

Sodium Benzoate = Sodium Benzoate is a salt of Benzoic Acid, found naturally in cranberries, prunes, plums, cinnamon, ripe cloves, and apples and used as a preservative in cosmetics and personal care product formulas as a fragrance ingredient, masking ingredient, anti-corrosive agent, and most frequently, as a preservative.

References

http://www.paulaschoice.com/cosmetic-ingredient-dictionary/definition/aha

https://au.pinterest.com/explore/layers-of-skin/

https://www.reddit.com/r/SkincareAddiction/comments/1fx45x/ahas_and_bhas_whats_the_difference_and_how_to/

http://www.simpleskincare.com/know-your-skin/your-skincare-questions-answered/ingredients-glossary/ingredient-detail/428036/water-aqua-eau-solvent

http://www.skinstore.com/blog/skincare/what-is-glycolic-acid/

https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/butylene-glycol

https://www.truthinaging.com/review/is-glycerin-good-or-bad-for-your-skin

http://www.paulaschoice.com/cosmetic-ingredient-dictionary/definition/salicylic-acid

http://www.paulaschoice.com/cosmetic-ingredient-dictionary/definition/lactic-acid

https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/701385/CITRIC_ACID/

https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/vitis-vinifera

http://www.paulaschoice.com/cosmetic-ingredient-dictionary/definition/skin-soothing/aloe-vera

http://bellatorra.com/opuntia-ficus-indica-stem-extract/

http://www.herbhedgerow.co.uk/chestnuts-uses-in-natural-beauty-skincare/#ixzz4a9fKtppj

https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/camellia-sinensis-leaf

http://www.herbwisdom.com/herb-raspberry-leaf.html

https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/saccharomyces-cerevisiae-extract

http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/function/active/142630376.html#sthash.gCaeICaL.dpuf

http://www.paulaschoice.com/cosmetic-ingredient-dictionary/definition/Sclerocarya-birrea-seed-oil

http://www.paulaschoice.com/cosmetic-ingredient-dictionary/definition/sodium-hyaluronate-crosspolymer

http://www.webmd.com/drugs/2/drug-20247/allantoin-topical/details

https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/hydroxyethylcellulose

https://www.truthinaging.com/review/what-is-it-galactoarabinan

https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/propanediol

https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/disodium-edta

https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/xanthan-gum

https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/hexylene-glycol

https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/phenoxyethanol

https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/caprylyl-glycol

https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ethylhexylglycerin

https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sodium-hydroxide

http://www.healthline.com/health/food-nutrition/is-sodium-nitrate-bad-for-you#1

https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/potassium-sorbate

https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/pentylene-glycol

https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/sodium-benzoate

Peeking for the Pekee Bar!

Posted on March 1, 2017 by Tanya-Maree

Psychologically before I started this challenge the thought of using a bar of soap on my face, I must admit was a little daunting for me. As I have mentioned previously one of the challenges I face with my skin is to balance the oil water ratio, as the less water my skin contains the more oil it will produce. But I committed to the Drunk Elephant 10-day challenge, taking #acleanbreak from all of my other skin care ranges so I have dived in head first to use the Drunk Elephant Pekee Bar.

One element of my skin along with oiliness is that I have high acidity, I can turn the cheapest of jewelry black upon contact and most floral scent perfumes seem to develop the aroma of cat urine once its touched my skin. Classic bar soap usually irritates my skin due to its alkaline Ph. However Drunk Elephants Pekee bar is formulated as a ‘mild synthetic’ bar combining ‘Sodium Coco-Sulfate and Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate with a natural binder, to make up a syndet formulation.’ (Beautypedia, 2017)

While this bar does give a slight foaming effect it contains moisturising ingredients and anti-irritants including marula oil, honey glycerin and blueberry extract as seen in my Nerd Ingredient List breakdown below. Hydrating and gentle enough to use around my eye’s. An eye makeup remover wasn’t part of the trial package provided to me for this challenge. I was worried about using a bar to cleanse my eye makeup off, but I can happily report at day 8 the skin around my eyes has remained hydrated using the Drunk Elephant Pekee Bar as an eye makeup remover.

The Drunk Elephant Pekee Bar is easy to use and dries quickly without leaving a soapy residue on your soap dish. Even though the bar was a smaller trial size to the normal retail size, I still seems to have not whittled the bar away too much in 8 days suggesting that this is a long-lasting value for money item. It has no scent to speak of, and leaves my skin feeling cleansed but still hydrated and relaxed.

I can report that after 8 days of use I am a true believer again in using bar’s in my skin care routine. Easy to use, cost effective, mild and hydrating enough to take care of removing all of my makeup, this girl is truly peeking for the Pekee Bar!

Nerd Ingredients List

Sodium Coco-Sulfate = instead of starting out with one fatty acid (lauric acid) they use a blend of fatty acids from the coconut oil, react them with sulfuric acid, then sodium carbonate, to create sodium coco sulfate. Sodium coco sulfate actually is a blend of sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium caprylic sulfate, sodium capric sulfate, sodium oleic sulfate, sodium stearyl sulfate etc, and instead of naming them all out with all of the fatty acids from the coconut oil, they just call it sodium coco sulfate. It can still be an irritant for some skins.

Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate = A de-greasing, emulsifier, and foaming agent used in many shampoos and other cleaning products. It’s not an organic substance, but it’s also not like other chemicals either. Is it bad for you? Researchers say no. The molecules are larger and cannot penetrate the skin in the way other surfactants do. It’s considered very gentle on the skin, and is even suitable for more sensitive skin types.

Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Starch = Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) kernel flour is a fine, soft powder. Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) starch can exist as a dry granular solid. used for abrading, smoothing, or polishing and as ingredients that have the capacity to absorb or soak up liquid. These ingredients hold together the ingredients of a compressed tablet or cake; as non-reactive, solid ingredients that are used to dilute other solids, or to increase the volume of a product;.

Cetearyl Alcohol = Works as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener and carrying agent for other ingredients contained in a cosmetic solution. It keeps the oil and water parts of an emulsion from separating, and gives products good spreadability. As a thickening agent and surfactant, it helps alter the viscosity and increase the foaming capacity of non-aqueous (i.e. lotions) and aqueous solutions (i.e. shampoo). It is often misinterpreted as an “alcohol” related to ethyl or rubbing alcohol, both of which can be extremely drying to the skin. The truth, in fact, is quite the opposite, as cetyl alcohol is well known to effectively condition and soften the skin and hair

Paraffin = a white or colorless, tasteless, odorless, water-insoluble, solid substance not easily acted upon by reagents, consisting of a mixture of hydrocarbons chiefly of the alkane series, obtained from crude petroleum: used in candles, for forming preservative coatings and seals,

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil = Known a Marula Oil, or the fruit of which the Elephants are said to graze on after fermented on the ground to become ‘drunk’. This is an organic, cold pressed, light textured oil that is highly nutritious to the skin. Successfully used on all skin types including sensitive skin.

Water/Aqua/Eau = A liquid substance that is able to dissolve other ingredients.

Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891) = It is a white, opaque and naturally- occurring mineral found in two main forms: rutile and anatase. Both forms contain pure titanium dioxide that is bound to impurities. Titanium dioxide is chemically processed to remove these impurities, leaving the pure, white pigment available for use. Titanium dioxide has a variety of uses, as it is odorless and absorbent.

Honey/Mel/Miel = Honey is a bee-derived, supersaturated solution composed mainly of fructose and glucose, and containing proteins and amino acids, vitamins, enzymes, minerals, and other minor components. In cosmetic formulations, it exerts emollient, humectant, soothing, and hair conditioning effects, keeps the skin juvenile and retards wrinkle formation, regulates pH and prevents pathogen infections.

Glycerin = Also called glycerol or glycerine, glycerin is present in all natural lipids (fats), whether animal or vegetable. It can be derived from natural substances by hydrolysis of fats and by fermentation of sugars; it also can be synthetically manufactured. Research shows that glycerin, is excellent for helping skin heal, reducing associated dermatitis, and restoring normal barrier function if used on an ongoing basis

Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract = Blueberry Fruit Extract is a natural extract of the fruit of Vaccinium Angustifolium. Blueberries contain antioxidants as well as vitamins A and C. Blueberries have been used to help treat acne, revitalize the skin, hasten healing and make the skin have an overall glow.

References

http://chemicaloftheday.squarespace.com/qa/2011/9/26/sodium-coco-sulfate.html

http://slsfree.net/disodium-laureth-sulfosuccinate/

http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/triticum-vulgare-wheat-starch

https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/cetyl-alcohol

http://www.dictionary.com/browse/paraffin

https://africanbotanics.com/pages/the-beauty-and-skin-care-benefits-of-marula-oil

http://www.simpleskincare.com/know-your-skin/your-skincare-questions-answered/ingredients-glossary/ingredient-detail/428036/water-aqua-eau-solvent

http://www.organicmakeup.ca/ca/titaniumdioxide.asp

http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jocd.12058/abstract

http://www.paulaschoice.com.au/cosmetic-ingredient-dictionary/definition/glycerin

https://www.ulprospector.com/en/na/PersonalCare/Detail/3023/561535/Blueberry-Extract-in-Propylene-Glycol

http://www.beautypedia.com/skin-care-reviews/by-brand/drunk-elephant/_/Peekee-Bar

http://mecca.com.au/drunk-elephant/pekee-bar/I-025397.html

Drunk Elephant Virgin Marula Luxury Facial Oil, the Favourite Child!

Posted on March 1, 2017 by Tanya-Maree

Day 7 of the Drunk Elephant challenge and I am starting to love these products as I do my own children. So with that in mind I am about to do the unthinkable of any mother and name my favourite child! All products in the range so far have been equally impressive for their own unique strengths and how they perform in the skin. However, if I was being sent to a desert island and allowed to only take one product from the range the Drunk Elephant Virgin Marula Luxury Facial Oil would be it.

My skin is oily, if that hasn’t been pointed out previously in my blog, however it is prone to dehydration from environmental factors like weather and air-conditioning. As the largest organ of the human body, the skin communicates with the brain via the nervous system like every other organ. When my skin does become dehydrated it sends a message to my brain through the nervous system that it is drying up.

And let’s face it, if my skin dries, cracks and falls off, there goes my first line of defence against bacteria and the only thing containing my blood and guts within a semi-permeable casing. In a defensive measure to dehydration, irrespective of the fact that I already have a substantial oil flow, my brain sends messages through hormones in the blood back to my sebaceous glands to increase the oil production in my skin.

So as you can imagine, as an oily skinned person I need to stay hydrated and protect my skin from losing water from the surface at all costs! The Drunk Elephant B-Hydra Intensive Hydrating Gel that I reviewed yesterday does do a wonderful job at replacing lost water to the surface layers of the skin. However, if I simply put that product on without sealing it into the skin it would be a waste of time. It would simply dissipate into the atmosphere through osmosis the minute I walk into air-conditioning or any environmentally drying situation.

Yesterday I put the Drunk Elephant Virgin Marula Luxury Facial Oil to the test on the back of my Husbands Harley Davidson motorcycle. We had decided to go for a ride and believe me, the wind resistance travelling down the Bruce Highway at 110 kilometres an hour can certainly provide the perfect environmental testing ground. The first photo below was taken prior to the ride; I had started the day with the following skin preparation before applying my makeup and SPF:

Cleanse: Drunk Elephant JuJu Bar

Serum: Drunk Elephant C-Firma Day Serum

Hydration: Drunk Elephant B-Hydra Intensive Hydrating Gel

Protective: Drunk Elephant Virgin Marula Luxury Facial Oil

The second photo was after the ride, where you can see my skin still looks and felt hydrated and dewy.

The last photo was taken that night at a birthday dinner, where I simply touched up my lipstick and darkened my eye shadow and blush for night. My skin still felt hydrated and seemed to maintain its luminous glow, regardless of travelling around all day on the back of a Fat Boy facing harsh wind resistance.

For all the obvious reasons this product has become my favourite, extracted through a cold pressed patented water extraction method untouched by heat or chemicals. Packed full of antiaging anti-oxidants to fight free radicals reducing lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation that creates blotchiness. Assisting in elasticity of the skin, this little wonder product also contains anti-microbial properties to protect the skin from bacteria.

Pure as outlined in my Nerd Ingredient List below, and housed in an environmentally sound container protected against oxidisation in a sealed airlock pump to preserve the product. How could I not acknowledge that Virgin Marula Luxury Facial Oil is my favourite child of the Drunk Elephant range?

Nerd Ingredient List

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil = Marula Oil contains high levels of important antioxidants including Vitamin C, tocopherol (vitamin E), tochotrienol, phenolic compounds, essential amino acids and flavonoids that help cells renew and resist damaging effects of the environment. With regular use, Marula Oil delivers advanced protection against photo-aging – neutralizing free radicals, helps build healthy collagen, and provides antioxidant protection.

References

https://africanbotanics.com/pages/the-beauty-and-skin-care-benefits-of-marula-oil

http://mecca.com.au/drunk-elephant/virgin-marula-luxury-facial-oil/I-025392.html

Drunk Elephant B-Hydra Intensive Hydration Gel, the Un-Sung Hero!

Posted on February 27, 2017 by Tanya-Maree

While researching this product online I found the least hype out of all the Drunk Elephant range. Majority of Bloggers gave it a small percentage of air time and seemed unsure how to describe it. Most annoyingly (as an oily skinned person myself) comments consisted of something like: ‘This product would be great for oily skins as it is oil free and light in texture”

I made peace with my oily skin years ago, while the younger me hated having the usual acne associated with oily skin, at the age of 43 I have come to realise how anti ageing oil is and how grateful I am to have it. My occasional hormonal breakouts these day are more like little kiss marks from my sebaceous glands, letting me know they are still working and have my back in the fight to keep me looking young.

So I find it patronising when people try to pass off oil free formulas to me when I so dearly love oil! I like to draw on the analogy that skin is like a car, a car needs both oil and water as lubricants to keep its parts moving freely and so does our skin. Especially in Australia where we have such temperature extreme’s and rely so heavily on air conditioning which in turn dehydrates our skin.

So Drunk Elephant B-Hydra Intensive Hydrating Gel is perfect for all skin types, especially if you have even the slightest amount of dehydration in your skin. Which let’s face it includes everyone in Australia. This is the clever way to add water to the skin, locking it in with the other beautiful oil based products from the Drunk Elephant range.

Drunk Elephant B-Hydra Intensive Hydrating Gel has no less than nine humectants or water preserving ingredients to hold moisture in the skin. Perfectly applied after your serum to form a reservoir of much needed moisture to face our daily drying conditions. Pineapple fruit extract, apple fruit extract and citric acid promote new cell growth through exfoliation of dead skin. While Lentil fruit extract and panthenol partner to provide vitamin B, along with a plethora of other antioxidant ingredients to provide the skin with anti-ageing properties.

Don’t be mistaken to dismiss this product as simply a ‘light weight moisturiser for people with oily skin’. This little powerhouse product is an essential part of the successful Drunk Elephant skin care routine. So here’s celebrating the true underdog of this range, lets acknowledge the properties of Drunk Elephant B-Hydra Intensive Hydrating Gel, a must for EVERY skin type!

NERD INGREDIENT LIST

Water/Aqua/Eau = Liquid substance that is capable of dissolving other ingredients that would otherwise be difficult to incorporate into the desired cosmetic.

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer = is used to increase the viscosity of a product due to its high molecular weight. gives products ‘a super-smooth, velvety skin feel.’ It works over a wide pH range, and is useful in the general stabilisation of water/oil based formulations.

Ananas Sativus (Pineapple) Fruit Extract = Pineapple extract conditions the skin, has antimicrobial properties, is naturally hydrating, and serves as a natural toner. Use of this extract will improve the softness and elasticity of your skin. The alpha-hydroxy acids found in pineapple help to remove dead skin cells, therefore brightening the skin. The enzyme bromelain exfoliates, restores brilliance, removes dry skin and has anti-inflammatory properties. The antioxidant power from vitamin C protects your skin against aging, dark spots, and wrinkles and increases skin firmness.

Berberis Vulgaris Root Extract = Barberry is used to ease inflammation and infection. Barberry extract may also improve symptoms of certain skin conditions including psoriasis and acne.

Citrullus Vulgaris (Watermelon) Fruit Extract = This ingredient is a highly purified Water Melon extract that protects the DNA in skin cells from damage caused by UV-light induced free radicals. Its synergistic composition is very strong in protecting the DNA of the skin’s fibroblasts and keratinocytes.

Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Fruit Extract = Lens Esculenta(Lentil) Fruit Extract has been found to increase moisture in the skin while diminishing lines and wrinkles. The ingredient, which is rich in Vitamin B5 and extracted from the fruit of the Lentil or Lens Esculenta Lentil Fruit extract, functions as a skin protectant, conditioning agent, and antioxidant.

Skin conditioning refers to an agent’s function as an emollient, an ingredient that provides a protective coating for the skin, keeping it soft and smooth. As a humectant, skin conditioning draws in moisture from the environment to retain water in the uppermost layers of the skin.

Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract = Apples, taxonomically, are members of the rose family, along with other delicious fruits like plums, pears, peaches, strawberries, raspberries, and cherries. The fruit extract is most commonly manufactured by peeling the apple, removing the core materials, drying the fruit, and then creating a powder from it. Apple-derived ingredients are used for the following functions: skin conditioning, emulsion stabilizing, increasing viscosity, as an astringent, fragrance, and exfoliator.

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil = Marula Oil contains high levels of important antioxidants including Vitamin C, tocopherol (vitamin E), tochotrienol, phenolic compounds, essential amino acids and flavonoids that help cells renew and resist damaging effects of the environment. With regular use, Marula Oil delivers advanced protection against photo-aging – neutralizing free radicals, helps build healthy collagen, and provides antioxidant protection.

Coconut Alkanes = is the product obtained from the complete reduction and hydrogenation of a mixture of fatty acids derived from Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil. A plant derived silicone obtained from coconut oil which provides a smooth feel and helps spread-ability.

Panthenol = Alcohol form of the B vitamin pantothenic acid. Panthenol is used in skincare products as a humectant because of its ability to attract and hold moisture. Sometimes called pro-vitamin B5, panthenol mixes readily with many different types of ingredients, making it a versatile ingredient to be used in formulas because it improves the look and feel of skin.

Sodium PCA = is a naturally occurring humectant found in human skin that is a derivative of amino acids. Sodium PCA has high water absorbing properties, and is also considered to be hygroscopic, with the ability to absorb moisture from the air. It can also bind moisture to cells, and hold several times its weight in water. It delivers moisture to the hair and skin, and is often seen as an emollient or humectant in hair conditioners and moisturisers.

Sodium Lactate = is a sodium of natural L(+)-lactic acid, which is produced by the fermentation of sugar and contributes to skin conditioning. It has water binding properties and contributes to an emollient feel within products. Works well as a humectant and is mould resistant.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate = Botanical Ingredient. A salt derived from the licorice plant. Also known as licorice root extract. This skin conditioning agent works to improve the appearance of dry/damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness, and also functions as an anti-irritant with anti-inflammatory and skin soothing capabilities. In fact, clinical tests point to the ingredient as an effective treatment for atopic dermatitis.

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate = (Emollient) Substances, which are added to cosmetic products to help softens, smoothes or lubricates the skin.

Cyclodextrin = A naturally occurring polysaccharide that is produced from starch. Sometimes referred to as cycloamylose. In cosmetics, it’s primarily used for its odor absorption capabilities. In addition to stabilizing fragrances, it also works to reduce the foam in a solution an enhance the solubility and delivery of other ingredients in a product. As a stabilizer that keeps other ingredients from evaporating and losing efficacy

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate = naturally-derived chelating agent that improves the efficacy of preservatives and antioxidants and play a crucial role in the stability and efficacy of personal skin care products.

Citric Acid = Citric acid is an alpha hydroxy acid used in personal care products to adjust the acidity or promote skin peeling and re-growth in the case of anti-aging products. Citric acid is naturally found in citric fruits and juices, providing the characteristic acidic taste.

Pentylene Glycol = is synthetic humectant used in cosmetics and beauty products that is also secondarily used as a solvent and preservative. It is both water and oil-soluble and can have moisture-binding and antimicrobial properties

Chlorphenesin = In cosmetics, it’s used as a preservative because of its anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties. As a preservative, it prevents various products from running into issues such as such as viscosity changes, pH changes, emulsion breakdown, visible microorganism growth, color changes and disagreeable odor formation.

Caprylyl Glycol = A humectant and skin conditioning agent that lends moisturization, emollience and wetting properties to many cosmetic solutions. It also functions as a stabilizer and has been shown to increase the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives.

References

http://www.simpleskincare.com/know-your-skin/your-skincare-questions-answered/ingredients-glossary/ingredient-detail/428036/water-aqua-eau-solvent

https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/butylene-glycol

http://www.thedermreview.com/butylene-glycol/

https://www.truthinaging.com/review/is-glycerin-good-or-bad-for-your-skin

https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/ammonium-acryloyldimethyltaurate-vp-copolymer

http://www.pinkpapayaparties.com/blog/ananas-sativus-or-pineapple-fruit-extract/

http://umm.edu/health/medical/altmed/herb/barberry

http://www.skinphd.com/index.php/active-ingredient-glossary/fruits

http://bellatorra.com/lens-esculenta-lentil-fruit-extract/

https://blog.honest.com/pyrus-malus-fruit-extract/

https://africanbotanics.com/pages/the-beauty-and-skin-care-benefits-of-marula-oil